Sunday, September 12, 2010

Wall Raising

Raising, steadying and attaching the walls single-handed turned out to be impossible. My thanks to Neil Essy, Toby Kohlenberg and of course to Tiel for their help. 


Temporary Bracing

The steel-framed walls were attached to the floor with 1-1/2" Ramset nails and a hammer-operated powder-actuated Ramset driver. #2 powder charges did not drive the nail in far enough. #5 charges over-penetrated and split the flooring in tests. The same #4 charges used to attach channel to concrete worked perfectly.

Fastening Wall to Floor - Detail



Fastening Wall to Floor

The walls were connected to each other in two ways.
  1. The sheathing on the North and South walls extends 4-1/2" past the last studs. The plywood is screwed to the end studs on the East and West walls
  2. The end studs on the East and West walls were screwed to the end studs on the North and South walls
East, South and West Walls




North Wall - Interior View
North Wall - Exterior View
Connection Between North and East Wall

Wall Layout and Sheathing

Screw joints rotate. A lot of time got wasted rotating, skewing, tilting and re-truing them before sheathing. I temporarily nailed sections of steel stud to the floor to use as guides. The walls were sheathed in 1/2" CDX plywood fastened every 6" along the edges of the sheet and every 8" along interior studs. The plywood extends 3/4" below the bottom plat to protect the edges of the flooring.

Layout Using Steel Channel as a 12 foot Straight Edge


The Scafco sales rep suggested fine galvanized drywall screws to attach sheathing to the studs. 

West Wall With Sheathing

The unfinished South wall can be seen leaning against the fence at the left of the photo.

The East and West walls were built with the end-rafters attached to the front and back studs with hurricane ties and screwed to the sheathing.

Detail of Rafter Fastening
My drill wouldn't drive a specially built self-tapping screw through the structural steel members much less a drywall screw. Each screw had to be pre-drilled. I went through a lot of drill bits. Fortunately, Harbor Freight had a sale on 1/8" nitride-coated drill bits.

Detail - Sheathing Screwed to Stud

Framing the East Wall Window
The window was framed with shorter studs and two pieces of channel. The wide section of the channel was cut out with tin snips to form tabs that were screwed to the studs at each end. 

Steel Wall Framing

The East, South and West walls are framed with 4"x1 1/2" steel studs from Scafco and Rose City Building Supply. Some were new, others were bought in a lot. All are 16 gauge or thicker. The studs were fastened to the channel with purpose-built square head screw.

Having a flat level floor in place made the walls much easier to build.

An 18v cordless drill can drive a screw through channel and non-structural 26 gauge studs. It cannot drive them through structural studs, so each hole had to be pre-drilled with a 1/8" bit. I went through about thirty bits between the framing and sheathing, and it took more than twice as long as it would have with a proper screw gun. 

Lesson learned: Next time buy or rent a proper screw gun.

South Wall Before Fastening
South Wall After Fastening

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Better Soda Pop




Most soda is pretty nasty, too sweet, too fizzy and chemical flavored. There are better products out there, the occasional premium run from a big-name manufacturer and old brands like Moxie or Cheerwine. Carbonating commercial syrups doesn't get you much except a little price break. Same crud, your own bottle. If you want better you have to do it yourself.

The best book on the subject is Steve Cresswell's Home Made Root Beer and Soda Pop. It's got good advice and plenty of recipes. The Rich Root Beer and Chinese Ginger Beer are easy to make and delicious. He has a few oddball things like switchels from old "receipt" books, mostly to add a little character.

One recipe which seemed interesting was "Jessamine Syrup".

Syrup of Jessamine. - Simple syrup, pint and a half; spirit of orris-root, one ounce; essence of ber-gamot, two drachms; essence of lemon, one drachm; essence of cinnamon five drops ; slightly warm the syrup, and add the essences.

Jasmine has a wonderful smell. But it's a pain to extract. The moth-pollinated flowers open at night which means collecting them at odd hours. There isn't that much essential oil in each tiny blossom. And worst of all, you can't extract it with distillation. Some of the most fragrant parts break down at fairly low temperatures. Unless you have a supercritcal CO2 extraction setup at home you're pretty much stuck with enfleurage. To say it's time consuming and fiddly is a gross understatement.

A cheaper easier knockoff sounded like a good idea.

The orris root spirit was the only fiddly part. Was this supposed to be a full extraction? A tincture? Orris water from a local Indian market didn't work very well.

I finally tracked down the book the recipe came from, The Manufacture of Liquors, Wines and Cordials Without the Aid of Distillation, Pierre Lacour 1868. All became clear. The recipe right above Jessamine specifies a thirty six hour tincture of powdered orris root in alcohol.

The result? Not bad. It doesn't taste quite like jasmine, but the combination of smells has the same sort of effect.

The oil-based flavors like jessamine and neroli. don't work so well in water. The oils float to the top and leave a noticeable after-burn on the tongue. They are excellent in milk-based products like ice cream, kefir and yogurt.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Back On

The wettest June on record has not been kind to this project.
Neither has a galloping infection to my leg.
It looks like both are on the mend.

Results of this morning's tests:
  1. Extra vapor barrier kept the flooring nice and dry.
  2. The Green #2 Ram-Set charge wasn't enough to attach steel channel to the decking and joist.
  3. The Yellow #4 works fine.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

First Sunny Day!

Today was the first sunny day since the last entry. I put down a vapor barrier and 5/8" waferboard for a floor. The tongue on the edge of the flooring did not fit the corresponding groove on the next piece and had to be removed with a circular saw.

Tomorrow I'll do the walls, sheathing and maybe the roof.

Monday, June 7, 2010

Shed Construction Or First Real Carpentry Project

There are things like metal casting and welding which don't belong in the house, and I have to clear stuff out of the basement to make room for finishing it. So it's time to build a shed.

Overview

10' x 12'
skid foundation
2/12 pitch pent roof
1 door
2 2'x3' windows
No utilities yet.

The weather has not been helpful. There have been two or three days which weren't actually raining where I felt comfortable using power tools outside.

Site Preparation

The site was close to level. Dug three 6" wide trenches for the skids and filled them with 3" of pea gravel

Foundation

All wood is pressure treated. Where there are cuts they were treated with recommended sealant. Framing nails are coated. Joist hangers are attached with 9ga hot-dipped galvanized joist nails.

Three 4"x4"x12' skids
Thirteen 2"x6"x10' cut to 9' 9", one foot on center, toe-nailed to the skids
Two 2"x6"x12' end pieces connected to the joists with Simpson joist hangers, flush joist hangers at the ends.


Notes: The framing nailer and mini hand-nailer are my new best friends. This would have been an unbelievable pain without them.

Floor

10x25' Vapor barrier under floor
Floor is 5/8" OSB